Fonte: Tigre Tiene Todo (No site o mapa é grande e clicável!)
Como eu (quase) contei no post anterior, dessa vez no Tigre eu tive uma epifania… Percebi que, ao menos no meu caso particular, não é muito interessante chegar lá via Tren de la Costa, mesmo gostando bastante da viagem. A questão é que o Tren de la Costa chega na estação Delta, que está próxima do Parque de la Costa, do Puerto de Frutos e da Estação Fluvial, mas mal localizada em relação ao Paseo Victorica, onde estão as atrações que mais me interessam: o pátio do Museo Naval com seus aviões de guerra, a arquitetura linda do Museo de Arte, que já foi um hotel, vários restaurantes à beira do Río Luján… Valeu ter feito esse trajeto ainda dessa vez, porque eu queria muito ir ao Puerto de Frutos. Mas, sob o sol abrasador, acabamos não tendo quase nenhuma disposição para caminhar, e seguimos um percurso relativamente curto…
O mapa está pequeno, mas acho que dá pra acompanhar… A estação Delta está na parte superior do mapa – saindo da estação, caminha-se para a direita, passando pelo Parque de la Costa e pelo Casino, para chegar ao Puerto de Frutos.
Parque de la Costa
Entrada do Puerto de Frutos
O Puerto de Frutos é um grande mercado onde se encontra de comida a móveis, passando por artesanato, roupas e objetos de decoração. Está situado bem à margem do Río Luján, e dali também saem alguns passeios de barco de curta duração.
Do Puerto de Frutos tomamos o caminho de volta à estação Delta – atravessamos a estação em direção ao Río Tigre e seguimos pela Avenida Mitre, onde há vários clubes de pesca e remo, até chegar à ponte.
Club Italiano, um dos mais bonitos da Avenida Mitre
Cruzamos a ponte em direção à Avenida Lavalle. Se tivéssemos chegado de trem comum, pela estação Tigre, nosso passeio começaria aqui, atravessando a ponte e seguindo pela Lavalle em direção ao Paseo Victorica.
Cruzando a ponte…
Vista do Río Tigre
Com o sol de meio-dia brilhando sem dó, resolvemos dar uma parada para comer alguma coisa. A escolha foi o Tanto la Quería, um restó-bar super simpático, bem localizado na Avenida Lavalle, próximo à ponte.
Tanto la Quería
O calor era muito… Decidimos então ignorar a varanda ao ar livre, onde batia sol, e preferimos o salão interno, ainda bem vazio àquela hora:
A varanda do Tanto la Quería
O salão interno
Como a fome era pouca, tivemos a idéia de trocar o almoço por um sanduíche. O cardápio trazia um monte de sugestões apetitosas, entre elas um lomito, que de ito não tinha nada… O sanduíche estava uma delícia, mas era imenso!
Lomito? 😉
Depois do “almoço” não tivemos disposição de encarar a caminhada debaixo do sol quente até o Paseo Victorica, e achamos melhor tomar o trem de volta a Buenos Aires. Deixei de ir a vários lugares onde gostaria de ter ido, mas consegui o que eu achava mais difícil – apesar do desconforto do calor excessivo, deixar de lado os passeios de barco me fez gostar de ir ao Tigre dessa vez! Faço até planos para, na próxima vez em que for a Bs.As. por no mínimo 1 semana (talvez quando alugar um novo apê), não fazer um bate-e-volta ao Tigre, e sim ficar um fim de semana, pra ter tempo de passear com calma – e, quem sabe, até gostar de passear de barco… 8)
Pois é, que bom que eu não tenho problema nenhum com mudar de idéia!!! 😀
Oi Carla!
Estava procurando dicas sobre passeios em Buenos Aires e encontrei seu post…. e amei suas dicas…
Estou indo passar a virada do ano com namorado e amigos por lá (ficaremos 6 dias) e queria sugestões de onde ir , principalmente na noite do Reveillón… Estive olhando as casas de Tango tradicionais e estas estão “superfaturadas” para esta data, cobrando o triplo do valor dos dias normais!! Help!!!!
Agradeço!!
Fabíola, eu nunca passei o réveillon em Buenos Aires, então não tenho dicas próprias… Mas você pode encontrar várias dicas bacanas aqui: http://www.viajenaviagem.com/2009/11/voce-ja-passou-o-reveillon-em-buenos-aires-conte-como-foi/
Olá Carla, Quantas boas informações….
Bem, estou meio perdida em relação a que trem pegar para passear pela av. Victorica, E qual pegar para voltar para Bue?
San Isidro a parada e antes ou dpois de tigre?
Nao vou fazer o passeio de barco, e me enteressou bastante passear pela av. Victorica e mostrar os avioes de querra p meu filho. Desde ja, MUITO obrigada!
Leila, a estação do trem comum é mais conveniente para ir direto até o Paseo Victorica. Para voltar à Capital, você pode escolher o trem comum ou o Tren de la Costa. Se escolher esse, que é um trem mais turístico, e também mais bonito e confortável, lembre-se que a estação é mais distante, então ou você vai caminhar um bom pedaço ou vai precisar tomar um táxi.
San Isidro fica antes da chegada ao Tigre. Agora me bateu a dúvida: não sei se no trem comum também é possível descer e prosseguir viagem sem comprar um novo bilhete – mas o bilhete é super barato…
Carla,
Estou indo em outubro passar 10 dias em Buenos para minha lua de mel. Gostaria de fazer o passeio até o Delta, mas realmente não tenho a necessidade de passear de barco. Acha mesmo válido o passeio de barco ou não?
Qual o caminho que me sugere fazer? Pelo que li de relatos é melhor ir direto pelo trem comum, saindo de Retiro. Lá fazer Paseo Victoria e depois ir para a parte do Mercado de Frutos e voltar pelo Trem da Costa.
É isso mesmo? Ou vc sugere outra coisa?
Outra questão: qual o valor das passagens?
Obrigada e desculpe todas essas perguntas. 🙂
Bjos, Raphaella
Estive em BsAs em 20 de setembro e fiz o passeio ao tigre como vc recomendou. O passeio Vitória é lindo. Eu e minhas irmãs amamos. Vale mesmo a pena ficar lá um final de semana.
Obrigada por suas sugestões.
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Eu só fiz o passeio de barco,do hotel fomos
Direto para a estação, nem sabia dos trens e de tudo isso. :/ querendo voltar este ano em Buenos Aires, sabe se continua assim? Queria mais dicas , acho que vou me hospedar na Recoleta. Abraços
Lícia, eu fui em novembro passado e a viagem de trem comum da Estação Retiro até o Tigre está ainda melhor, porque os trens agora são novinhos! Para facilitar ainda mais, você pode comprar um cartão de transportes SUBE e pagar apenas 3 pesos pela passagem. Dá uma olhadinha nesse post aqui: https://idasevindas.com.br/2016/01/06/buenos-aires-dicas-atualizadas/
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