“Sob a chuva, a cidade, espelhante de casario,
tem a esquisita sensualidade
da gata que se lambe e que se acaricia
Friorenta, lúbrica cidade.” (Olegário Maciel)
Nem me lembro mais quando aprendi de cor esses poucos versos de Olegário Maciel – mas eles sempre me vêm à cabeça nos dias nublados, frios e chuvosos, em geral tão pouco apreciados…
É fato que em dias de férias fica um pouco mais difícil curtir a beleza dos dias de chuva, uma das razões pelas quais eu sempre insisto que a pior coisa para quem está passeando é ter que obedecer a um roteiro “engessado”. Sou a favor de roteiros que apenas guiem, mas que possam ser modificados a todo instante, com espaço para desvios de rota, mudanças de ideia, descobertas de novos recantos e, claro, a ocasional chuvinha inoportuna… Um truque bastante conhecido e utilizado por aqueles que têm um pouco mais de experiência em viagens é guardar algumas atividades indoor para esses momentos – pode ser um restaurante onde se queira fazer uma refeição mais demorada, uma livraria bacana, cinema, teatro ou museus…
No nosso caso, fomos surpreendidos logo pela manhã por uma chuva que não parecia ter fim próximo – não era muita nem forte, pelo contrário, era fininha e insistente. Decidimos então que esse seria o dia dedicado a dois museus que tínhamos curiosidade de conhecer: o Museo Casa Carlos Gardel e o Museo Beatle.
Calle Jean Jaurès: quase uma viagem no tempo…
A delicadeza e as cores do fileteado porteño…
O Museo Casa Carlos Gardel está situado na Calle Jean Jaurès, 735, em uma casa de fachada simples onde Gardel viveu com a mãe, na região conhecida como Abasto. Fomos de ônibus, que nesse caso era mais conveniente para nós do que o metrô. Tomamos o colectivo 75 na Calle Talcahuano, e em cerca de 20 minutos (apesar da chuva!) ele nos deixou na esquina de Tucumán com Pueyrredón. Caminhamos por algumas poucas quadras e logo chegamos ao museu.
A fachada despretensiosa do Museo Casa Carlos Gardel
Era o finalzinho da manhã, e o local estava super tranquilo. Fomos muito bem recebidos e fizemos a nossa visita com toda a calma do mundo – nos demoramos o quanto quisemos em cada um dos ambientes… Me pareceu que, embora o tema Gardel pudesse significar que o point seria obrigatório para turistas fãs de tango, na prática talvez ainda seja uma visita um pouco à margem do interesse mais geral – ou talvez a chuva tenha afugentado o público até mesmo dos museus… 😉
O violão, um dos destaques em exposição…
Logo na primeira sala da casa-museu vimos fotos, partituras, documentos, discos e o lindo violão em lugar de destaque…
As primeiras salas foram uma baita viagem no tempo – chapéus, móveis, rádios, máquinas de escrever, um gramofone…
Mas em nenhum momento o museu virou as costas para a tecnologia, muito pelo contrário – pode-se passar um bom tempo ali apenas vendo os vídeos que contam a história do ídolo ou mostram suas apresentações…
Painéis de fotos e vídeos à vontade…
Nas outras salas temos também muita informação sobre os músicos que trabalharam com Gardel, assim como um espaço reservado para as notícias da época de sua morte, em um acidente de avião que chocou não apenas a Argentina…
Mais fotos e bastante informação
A última sala é um “mini-cinema” onde pode-se passar horas a fio vendo os filmes de Gardel…
Um espaço para mergulhar nos filmes de Gardel…
Fizemos uma visita super agradável, até melhor do que eu esperava! Gostamos do trabalho de restauração / transformação da casa em museu, do cuidado com os objetos em exposição, da atenção dos funcionários do local. Assim, quando abri o Trip Advisor agora há pouco para conferir algumas resenhas sobre o lugar e me deparei com várias críticas negativas, achei uma grande injustiça – devo dizer que discordo veementemente!
Quando saímos do museu, já estávamos com uma fome daquelas… Mas ali bem pertinho fica o Abasto Shopping, que funciona no espaço que abrigava o antigo Mercado de Abasto. Recorremos à super praça de alimentação do shopping, lotada como de costume em qualquer shopping em um dia de chuva, mas que salvou a pátria…
Abasto Shopping lotado…
Depois do almoço tomamos o metrô praticamente em frente ao shopping e seguimos para o segundo museu do dia, o Museo Beatle, situado dentro do Paseo La Plaza, na Avenida Corrientes 1660. O Paseo é um centro cultural, comercial e gastronômico super aconchegante, o que chega a ser surpreendente pela localização, em pleno frenesi da Avenida Corrientes. Dá pra escolher xeretar as lojinhas, pegar um cinema, assistir uma peça de teatro, conferir um restaurante…
Paseo La Plaza
Paseo La Plaza
Paseo La Plaza
… ou seguir até o Museo Beatle e fazer uma visitinha a essa que é considerada a maior coleção privada de memorabilia sobre os Beatles nas Américas… 😉
O Museo Beatle – a maior coleção particular de objetos referentes aos Beatles fora da Inglaterra
Acho que a visita é bem interessante mesmo para aqueles que não são fãs da banda (mas não posso falar de cadeira – tanto eu quanto o marido amamos os Beatles… 😉 ) porque traz muitos objetos divertidos e curiosos, como por exemplo:
Um pedaço da parede supostamente do Cavern Club original, em Liverpool… 😀
Algumas fitas cassette – alguém ainda se lembra disso?!? 😉
Publicações antigas…
Cofrinhos Beatle em formato de porquinho?!? 😯
Bonequinhos, perucas, lápis e todo tipo de souvenir…
Ao final da visita, como já não estava mais chovendo, sentamos em uma das mesinhas ao ar livre do Cavern Club para um café que coroou mais um dia super gostoso em Buenos Aires.
Paseo La Plaza
Museo Casa Carlos Gardel
Calle Jean Jaurès 735 – Abasto
Ônibus: 26, 75, 132, 180
Metrô: Corrientes (linha H), Carlos Gardel ou Pueyrredón (linha B)
Horário de funcionamento: 2as., 4as., 5as. e 6as. das 11 às 18 h; sábados e domingos das 10 às 19 h; fechados às 3as.
Ingresso: as informações na web sobre o valor dos ingressos são muito desencontradas… Pagamos Ar$ 10 por pessoa em novembro de 2015.
Museo Beatle
Avenida Corrientes 1660 – Paseo La Plaza
Metrô: Callao ou Uruguay (linha B)
Horário de funcionamento: 2a. a 6a. das 10 às 24 h; sábados e domingos das 17 às 24 h
Ingresso: o site oficial não traz o valor atualizado das entradas… Pagamos Ar$ 40 por pessoa em novembro de 2015.
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