A idéia de visitar a Bolívia me acompanha desde que estive no Chile pela primeira vez, em setembro de 2000. Naquela ocasião, quando visitei os Geysers del Tatio, soube que estava a apenas 10 km da fronteira entre o Chile e a Bolívia – não tive a oportunidade de cruzar a fronteira, mas a distância insignificante aguçou a minha curiosidade…
Três anos mais tarde, quando fui a Corumbá, no Mato Grosso do Sul, tive a chance de cruzar a fronteira com a Bolívia inúmeras vezes, tanto de carro, para conhecer o free shop de Puerto Quijarro ou a igrejinha colonial e o píer de Puerto Suárez, quanto de barco, passeando pelo Rio Paraguai – e a curiosidade aumentou… 😉
A igrejinha colonial de Puerto Suárez e o marco da divisa Brasil-Bolívia visto do Rio Paraguai
Quando surgiu a idéia desta viagem, o foco principal da nossa atenção era o Peru, não a Bolívia. Queríamos curtir o centro histórico de Cuzco, visitar as ruínas de Machu Picchu, conferir os restaurantes de Lima. Mas, com 15 dias de férias nas mãos e as lembranças de alguns programas da TV a cabo sobre o Lago Titicaca, o roteiro original começou a ser adaptado e a tomar a forma atual.
A princípio, o mais importante era inserir o lago no roteiro, fosse pelo lado peruano ou pelo boliviano. Analisando o mapa, o mais sensato parecia ser aproveitar a proximidade do lago com La Paz e a estrutura turística de Copacabana, até porque a distância de Lima a Puno, a cidade-base para os passeios pelo lado peruano do Titicaca, é bastante considerável.
Mapa: Turisbus
E foi assim que começaram as pesquisas sobre a Bolívia. Se iríamos chegar por La Paz, teríamos que dedicar ao menos uns dias à cidade, e não partir para Copacabana de imediato – e assim começamos a descobrir a riqueza histórica e cultural das civilizações pré-incaicas e pré-colombianas, além de toda a beleza natural de um país que oferece montanhas, lagos gelados, selva amazônica, cidades históricas e desertos de sal, tudo em um só pacote… 😉
Infelizmente, o nosso período de férias, que parecia até generoso a princípio, começou a parecer escasso para dar conta de tantos atrativos! E foi então que decidimos ver o que fosse possível no pouco tempo que nos cabia na Bolívia, sem lamentações, mas sabendo que estávamos deixando várias e várias atrações para uma outra oportunidade.
Originalmente, o nosso roteiro já continha pouco tempo na Bolívia: eram 4 noites, distribuídas do seguinte modo:
- 3 noites em La Paz: chegaríamos à cidade de madrugada, e teríamos 2 dias inteiros para visitar a cidade em si, o Valle de la Luna e o sítio arqueológico de Tiwanaku;
- 1 noite em Copacabana: sairíamos de La Paz bem cedo para chegar à Copacabana ainda pela manhã, contando aproveitar a tarde para um passeio à Isla del Sol.
Pois bem: quase tudo correu como o planejado, exceto pelo fato de que o nosso vôo de ida para La Paz foi cancelado e perdemos o primeiro dia das férias… 😥 Tivemos então que rever as nossas prioridades: resolvemos sacrificar a ida a Tiwanaku e substituí-la por um city-tour por La Paz, para pelo menos tentar ter uma noção da cidade. Resumo da ópera? Parece que funcionou, mas preciso voltar a La Paz com mais calma e devo a mim mesma uma visita a Tiwanaku… 😉 Em Copacabana, tudo deu absolutamente certo!
No dia em que eu voltar à Bolívia – e eu espero que não demore! – quero dedicar uns 15 dias ao país, nada de 4 ou 5, apenas…
Para começar, talvez eu chegasse por Santa Cruz de la Sierra, para conhecer uma outra Bolívia, mais rica e moderna por conta do petróleo e do gás, mais envolvida em sua herança européia. Aproveitaria para visitar a região das missões. Dedicaria algum tempo às belezas naturais do Salar de Uyuni e suas lagunas multicolores. Visitaria a cidade de Potosí, grande produtora de prata na época colonial. Iria a Sucre, a capital constitucional da Bolívia, um importante centro cultural do país. Passaria ao menos um dia em Oruro, outra cidade de herança colonial. Voltaria a La Paz, dessa vez com tempo para ir a Tiwanaku. E provavelmente terminaria o périplo novamente em Copacabana, curtindo a vista maravilhosa do Lago Titicaca… 😀
Na próxima, você vai ter a obrigação de se hospedar no Rosario e ganhar desconto pela divulgação!
Que venha o Peru!
Apoiado, Alexandre, vou querer esse desconto!!! 😀
Carla,
a sua descrição desta viageme está impecável! Muito instrutiva e inspiradora!!!
Que venha um mochilão pela América do Sul quando meus tempos na Europa acabarem! 😆
Abraços, feliz Natal atrasado e meus votos de um ótimo ano novo!
Carla
Você vai amar, Carlinha! É um outro mundo, não tem nadinha a ver com a Europa, mas também é um fascínio só… 😉
Carlinha, passando aqui para desejar um 2008 maravilhoso com muuuitas viagens !!!!!
Obrigada, Majô! Que você tenha também um 2008 excelente, com muita paz, saúde, amor, felicidade e sempre aquelas tão sonhadas viagens!!! 😉
Carla, estou acompanhando as notícias sobre a Bolívia todos os dias, pois ainda estou disposta a fazer essa viagem em maio. Meu namorado quer muuuuito ir à Machu Picchu (e eu também!) e não abre mão de conhecer o Titicaca. Mas ir até Puno e não conhecer Copacabana (e o Rosário 😉 ) ??? E aí já é tão perto de La Paz… Então estou aqui cruzando os dedos para que a situação por lá continue se resolvendo! E enquanto isso fico lendo e relendo seus posts e pesquisando… 😀 Beijos!
Camila, o jeito é mesmo ficar acompanhando o noticiário e pesando se vale a pena ir… Enquanto isso, vou começar a postar sobre o Peru ainda essa semana… 😀
estou amando seu blog!! muuiuto obrigada!! por compartilhar conosco informaçoes tao importantes e tao detalhadas. sera que eu consigo fazer um blog tb? ja estou penando no assunto, nao sei nem por onde começar. mas a minha viagem pra Machu Pichu tb tomou a forma começando por La Pazpor dicas de uma prima que ja foi, qdo achei o seu blog e o da Camila eu me apaixonei, estou escrevendo o roteiro todo e animadissima para chegar la! Deus te abençoe!
Claro que consegue, Melissa! Vou dar uma olhada agora nas suas perguntas – mas fique tranqüila, o caminho é mesmo fazer bastante pesquisa e um bom planejamento! 😉
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